Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Frijoles (beans)



Along with corn another staple New World food are beans. There are a variety of ways to serve beans and prepare dishes made with beans but there is a core way to cook beans which I will discuss here. There  are a variety of common beans than are often used in Mexican food and this is often dictated regionally by the varieties common to the indigenous peoples of the area. In Arizona pinto beans are the prevalent variety, elsewhere black beans and white beans can be found in dishes in Central and Southern Mexico. Nonetheless the methods for the basic preparation is the same. For the methods below I will be using an Italian variety of bean that is quite close in appearance and flavour to the pinto bean.

Beans


pinto beans after the fast soak method
So one of the most important steps to making beans is soaking. Soaking does a few things: It shortens the overall cooking time while producing a softer less gritty bean; it also removes much of the soluble  carbohydrates which feed the bacteria responsible for gas production... less flatulance. So take a pound of beans (500 grams) and sort through them to check for stones or any other foreign material. Next add enough water to cover the beans by a couple volumes, the beans will soak and nearly double in volume so add enough water that they remain covered. From here you can go one of two ways. The first is overnight soaking for 12+ hours in water, drain and wash the beans before cooking. The other is the "fast soak" method where you cover with water as before, but then immediately begin heating the beans and bring it to a boil for 15 minutes, then turn off the heat and let the beans sit for an additional 45 minutes covered. Next drain and wash the beans.

Pinto beans with onion and poblanos before cooking
After you have your soaked beans by either method it is time to cook them. Cover them again with as much water as you used for soaking. Add one yellow onion, quartered, some hot green chiles like jalepenos as well as some milder chiles. Then a little smoked pork (a few oz; 50-100g), this can be bacon, smoked pork hock, etc. Now turn on the heat and sit back, add water to keep the beans covered it will take several hours until the beans are soft... unless you have a pressure cooker then it takes under an hour. After soft add salt to taste. There is the basic process for beans. Here are some variations:

Frijoles rancheros (ranch beans, recipe I stole from my friend's aunt): After your beans are done cooking, in a skillet fry up some bacon until crispy, remove the bacon. In the grease fry up diced red onion until soft, then add chopped tomato. After the mixture is hot, chop and add the bacon back then use this to top a bowl of beans with some chopped cilantro (fresh coriander). Serve with tortillas and salsa.

Frijoles refritas (Refried beans):

Despite the name these beans are never fried. They are just smashed beans with fat, lard is the best (you can use vegetable shortening or butter). I take the beans, prepared as above, add a tablespoon of lard and blend with a hand blender. If they are too thin you can keep heated until they evaporate enough (if you plan on making refried beans I try to adjust the liquid before blending as it is much easier to burn the beans after blending). These go with almost everything, for instance burritos with chile verde (below). Tortillas from previous post, salsas and chile verde to come...


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